John Galliano Fall/Winter Collection 2009.John Galliano (CBE, RDI) is a Gibraltar-born British fashion designer of French fashion companies Givenchy (1995-1996), Christian Dior (1996-2011) and his own label John Galliano (1988-2011), at present he is the creative director of Paris-based fashion house Maison Margiela. Galliano has been named British Designer of the Year four times and in a 2004 poll for the BBC he was named the fifth most influential person in British culture. The Fall/Winter collection had a frozen Russian Balkan folklore vibe to it. On the catwalk there was a micro-bubble snowstorm and a trick of laser lighting which created a magical illusion. The models appeared as if they were walking in a fairy tale tunnel. It was very clear that there had been a lot of research into folk costumes because of how detailed the fashion was. The looks for Galliano’s Fall/Winter collection 2009 was created by makeup artist Pat McGrath, the looks were intended to look like frozen Russian brides who had been walking in the snow for hours. The makeups she created for the collection ranged from silver-grey tones to lots of frosty tones with strong, thin brows. Eyeshadow colours varied from lavenders, baby blues, silvers and greens. Gold was placed under the eyes in order to create a frozen tears look. The mouth had an ethereal look, this was created by only applying colour to the centre of the lips. Lady Gaga was inspired for her ‘Applause’ music video by John Galliano and Pat McGrath’s Russian brides. My Galliano Fall/Winter 2009 Look.I absolutley love this look. Galliano's Fall/Winter collection 2009 has inspired me on many occasion, it's so vampy and dark but also ethereal and soft at the same time. For this look I created, I used purple shades to make it a darker, gothy version. I used white face paint to create the white lashes (love, love, love white lashes). For a touch of vintage I added thin brows and kiss curls.
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Ohaguro.Ohaguro is a practice from Ancient Japan where women would dye their teeth black. Up until the end of the 19th century blackened teeth were considered a sign of beauty. The traditional method for obtaining black teeth involved drinking dye. Iron fillings would be soaked in sake or tea, once the iron has oxidized it would turn into a black liquid. Anise, clove or cinnamon would be used to make the dye taste better as it was very harsh. The dye would then be drunk, the mixture would turn the wearer's teeth black. The liquid would be drunk daily or every other day in order keep their teeth black. Skeletons found from the Edo Period (17th - 19th Century AD) had teeth that were still black, this shows that the process was permanent. Women from the Heian Period desired pale skin, they would use white makeup made from rice powder to give their skin the illusion of paleness. However, the rice powder made the wearer's teeth appear yellow. This is why it's thought that women from the Heian Period (794 - 1185) dyed their teeth black. My Ohaguro.I created my own Ohaguro look. Of course I didn't create mine by drinking oxidised iron, I used my Mehron Tooth Enamel in shade 'Decay'. For the face makeup I just used some white greasepaint and a red lipstick. The Cure.The Cure are an English rock band who formed in the late 1970s. Their early music had a post-punk and new wave style, but as they progressed into the 1980s their style fell into gothic rock! If you haven't heard of them, check out my favourite songs 'Just Like Heaven' and 'The Lovecats'. Lead singer Robert Smith's trademark look was; pale skin, dark smokey eyes, smudged red lipstick and dishevelled hair. He began wearing this look during the early 1980s, around the same time the goth subculture took off. Some people consider him the trendsetter for 1980s goth fashion. Looking at pictures of 1980s goths you can see the clear inspiration they took from Robert Smith. Their hair is dishevelled and their eyes are dark and heavy. Of course over time gothic fashion has evolved and changed to fit in with different subcultures. I can't help but notice how much Smith's style looks like Edward Scissorhands from Tim Burton's 1990 film 'Edward Scissorhands'. Seeing as Smith rocked the look before Burton released the film, I was curious to find out if Burton was influenced Smith's gothic rock look! After doing a bit of research I discovered that Edward Scissorhand's hair was inspired by Robert Smith's, they both look like they've had an electric shock. It's reported that Tim Burton even asked Smith to do the soundtrack for the film (which would have been awesome) but turned it down because he didn't know who Burton was and was also working on The Cure's album 'Disintegration'. Jean Harlow.Jean Harlow was a 1930s actress and sex symbol and, my makeup muse of the week. Harlow had become one of the biggest movie stars by the late 1930s and had even become more popular than Norma Shearer and Joan Crawford. She was nicknamed the 'Blonde Bombshell', because she was the first 'platinum blonde'. Harlow's fame and fortune was short lived as she died at the young age of 26 from a kidney disease. There has been many speculation over the years as to the real cause of death; over-dieting, a botched abortion or poisoning from constantly bleaching her hair. Howard Hughes wanted to create a nickname for Harlow, as Clara Bow had been the 'IT' girl and Mary Pickford had been 'America's Sweetheart', which where he came up with 'Platinum Blonde' and fans later, 'Platinum Bombshell'. Her hairdresser Alfred Pagano used ammonia, peroxide, clorox bleach and lux flakes to create her famous platinum blonde shade. She would have it dyed once a week! Using these harsh chemicals so regularly on her hair, lead to it falling out and her having to wear wigs. My Jean Harlow.This look was so simple and easy to create, I felt like Harlow, minus the obvious lack of platinum blonde hair. I was impressed with how well I blocked my eyebrows, I've made such an improvement over the past couple months! I will get there eventually! Before I jump into my first blog post in 2 months, I would first like to apologise for absence, It's been a hectic time, I've created several looks which I will be posting over the next couple of weeks and I've also had the most amazing work experience with my dream company, unfortunately I can't disclose any information about it! Phi Phi O'Hara's 365 Days of Drag.Phi Phi O'Hara is a Drag Queen, known from RuPaul's Drag Race season 4 and RuPaul's Drag Race All Stars 2. Admittedly she's not my favourite Drag Queen, but her 365 Days of Drag has given my so much joy and inspiration every day so far this year. Her makeups are so innovative and creative, everything you see in the photo was planned and made by her, she even took the photos. Below are some of my favourite looks created by her! Pale Skin.The Stuart's ideal beauty was pale skin, dark hair and a small double chin. Dark hair being beautiful and popular was new in the beauty world, before blonde or red hair was the ideal. One thing from the century before that did stay was the need to be pale, pale skin was a sign of wealth, nobility and delicacy. The upper classes considered pale skin to be attractive, white paint was used to help the lightening process. It was also still stylish to have a high forehead; as in the Medieval era, plucking was still a popular method to achieve this. Queen Anne of EnglandWhite paint was often made of pearl powder or talc, this was harmless whereas the other option was ceruse which was made from white lead which was toxic. Queen Mary II of EnglandMost ways of achieving pale skin were lethal; this teamed with poor hygiene and health meant that most 17th century women didn't reach middle age. A woman was past her best at twenty and considered Ancient at thirty. Mary of Modena1920s Lips.When you think of 1920s lips you think of the famous 'Cupid's Bow'. Cupid Bow lips were favoured and made popular by Hollywood stars like Clara Bow and Mary Pickford. Makeup artist Max Factor created the 'Cupids Bow' which was first ever seen on Clara Bow, women soon started copying Bow's lips and the famous flapper craze took off. Lip colours came in shades of pink, red and orange. Popular lipstick names were; scarlet, rose, raspberry, poppy, cerise and carmine. The early 1920s lips were darker, like claret or plum. The upper lip was a heart-shape and the lower lip was applied to just miss the outer edges. This created a smaller bee-stung looking lip. Metal lip tracers were sold to help women who found it difficult to create the ideal lip shape themselves. My 1920s Lips.I used Jeffree Star Cosmetics Velour Liquid Lipstick in shade 'Unicorn Blood' to create my own 1920s flapper lips. I found it easier to use a thin angled brush rather than the lipsticks applicator. Ancient Greek Skin Care.The Ancient Greeks were not the Bronze Gods most people think they were, instead they were Ivory Gods. Protecting their skin with creams and lotions, as well as keeping in the shade helped to keep their skin as pale as possible. Most ingredients used for cosmetics were natural, like plants, flowers and seeds. The Native Olive Tree was used a lot within Greek cosmetics, it was thought that the lifeblood of Ancient Greek culture was Olive Oil. Olive Oil was not only used for cosmetics but also for lightening, food and pharmaceutical purposes. It was essential in daily body care and personal hygiene, Greek women used it as an enhancing skin cleanser, moisturiser and personal lubricant. Honey was also an essential ingredient to the Greek cosmetic industry, milk and honey baths were a popular nightly beauty regime. Flowers, herbs, vegetables and fruits native to Greece were also used. Seeing as it's night time and I'm about to do my daily evening skin care regime, I thought I would share with you a few of the products I like to use. Of course being a makeup artist and a beauty addict you probably think I use high end products, but I'm broke and have othet commitments, however there are some really good affordable brands out there! In fact most products I purchase from Superdrug! My Nightly Skin Care Regime.1 - Cotton Buds & Cotton Wool Balls = Cotton Buds are amazing for everything and anything, but seriously I discovered how amazing Cotton Wool Balls are the other day, they are so soft and not as rough as Cotton Pads... Seriously a must have! 2 - Nivea Original Care Lip Balm = This is really nourishing for my lips, especially as winter is coming up and my lips get really sore and dry. 3 - Naturally Radiant Glycolic Clearing Lotion = This stuff is so good! SERIOUSLY! I only use it once or twice a week as I don't want to overdo it, but I actually wake up with such fresh skin. 4 - The Body Shop Tea Tree Skin Clearing Lotion = I only use this when I have a spot, which isn't often, I'm quite lucky to have clear skin! But when I use this product it works wonders. 5 - Superdrug Vitamin E Skin Care Facial Oil = Like the Ancient Greeks I like to use oil in my skin care regimes, I get a few dry patches on my face, and my foundation doesn't sit right on it, that's why I have started using this oil. I dap it on the dry patches of skin with a cotton wool ball. 6 - B.Radiant Overnight Mask = This stuff is amazing, I really like B. Skin care products. This overnight mask is from the phase 2 range which is for women in their 30s and over. I'm sorry but it's better to start off sooner than later with anti-ageing products. And this mask is great, I use it when my skin is really tight and stressed, which is great because I wake up in the morning with a healthy glow. 7 - Clearly Youthful Resurfacing Night Serum = OMG! This stuff, it really does work for me. It's been clearing up my bad blocked nose pores and my frown lines. 8 - B.Restored Night Cream = I use this cream every night before bed, it's thick and very nourishing. It's from the phase 3 range which is for 40s and over. It's really good and a must have! This is just a quick post while I'm on my break at work. Yesterday I went back 46 years to the 1970s, creating this 1970s Boho-Chic look! This look consists of bright, bold green eyes, natural brows and a patterned headscarf. I'm suprised about how much I liked this look on me, especially the natural brows as I have been colouring my brows in for 4 years now! 1970s Boho-Chic.I'm sorry that I have been quiet on the blog front, It has been a crazy couple of weeks! I have been preparing for my graduation, which happened Monday! Three long years have gone by and I'm finally the proud owner of a Bachelor of Arts Honours Degree in Specialist Hair and Media Makeup! Below are a couple images from my special day! Being completely finished with uni means that I have time to be super excited for some of the upcoming makeup releases! Who can't wait for Jeffree Star to release his 'Lip Ammunition', it comes in 10 shades on the 29th September!
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AuthorThis blog is to follow on from my university final project, which was a historical reference book on ‘Female Hair and Makeup Throughout History’. Each week I will release a post featuring an era and an aspect of hair, makeup and fashion from the time. I will also have my makeup muse of the week, who could be a makeup or fashion trendsetter of their time or a makeup artist who has innovated the industry. Archives
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