Queen Elizabeth I.Queen Elizabeth I ruled England from 1558 to 1603, her reign was known as the Elizabethan era and she was the last monarch of the Tudor dynasty. Elizabeth never married nor did she produce issue, because of this she was often refered to as the Virgin Queen Queen Elizabeth herself possessed the ideal Elizabethan beauty traits; pale skin, wide-set eyes, narrow brows and golden red hair. Elizabeth was an influential monarch with fashion, women strove to copy her trends. Queen Elizabeth would wear thick white lead on her face for aesthetic reasons, to maintain her appearance of a pure virgin and to cover up her smallpox scars. The white lead also became useful when she grew older as it was able to disguise her wrinkles. Queen Elizabeth had golden red hair, in the Elizabethan era it was hard to maintain hair, so Elizabeth often wore wigs. It was said that she had over eighty wigs in her personal collection. My Elizabeth I.In my second year of university I had to create a look based off of female icon 'Queen Elizabeth I' for my period hair exam. I styled a blonde wig into a traditional Elizabethan style and adorned it with pearl flowers and white ostrich feathers. I also did a beauty makeup on the model, unfortunately it looked a bit more theatrical than HD filn
0 Comments
18th Century Makeup.In the 18th century it was considered appropriate to wear makeup and to not be ashamed to do so. Cosmetics were used heavily in the 18th century, the use of cosmetics was not only for vanity but for practical uses too - they could hide the effects of disease, blemishes, the sun or age. Women would wear thick layers of white paint made from lead to conceal and lighten their skin. Rouge was used on their cheeks in an upside triangle or circular shape to brighten their face up. "Mouches" also known as beauty patches were worn, see a previous post to find out their meanings and what they were made from (18th Century Beauty Marks Part 1 & 2). Eyebrows tended to be shaped like a half-moon and tapered at the ends, they would be darkened with burnt cork, lampblack, kohl or elderberries. Occasionally false brows made from mouse fur were worn. Eye lids were usually left bare but lashes would often be darkened. Small lips were favoured, with a larger bottom lip, this was to create a soft and gentle rosebud effect. Lips were painted red; vermillion was painted onto the lips or distilled vinegar was used to redden the lips. I created a quick 18th century makeup of my own. I enjoyed creating this look, choosing what beauty marks I wanted was fun; the crescent by my eye means passionate (Chosen because I'm passionate about makeup), the heart on my left cheeks means that I vote for the Whigs party (Bit of historical politics) and the circle by my lips means kissable (I wanted one by my mouth and it was either kissable or silent and I thought kissable sounded more fun). Shirley Eaton.In 1964, Shirley Eaton played Jill Masterson in James Bond 'Goldfinger'. Her character betrays Goldfinger and in a cruel twist of fate he creatively kills her by covering her body in gold paint, thus 'suffocating' her. Bond discovers her painted corpse which appears to be made out of solid gold. He explains her death, how the body breathes through the skin and covering it will lead to death by suffocation. He goes on to explain that exotic dancers leave a small patch of skin bare at the base of the spine so that when they are painted the patch of skin unpainted will help prevent them falling victim to asphyxiation. Of course we know that it is not possible to die this way. You do breathe through your skin, but as long as you can breathe through your nose and mouth you can not suffocate. If this was the case body painting would not be a form of art as it is today! However, in 1964 when the film was released people were quite gullible, so would have believed this could actually happen. This is also probably where the urban legend about Shirley Eaton's death came from. People actually thought Shirley Eaton had died during the making of Goldfinger due to asphyxiation, this rumour was encouraged even more by her disappearance from the limelight in the early 70s to raise her children. We know that she didn't die during the making of Goldfinger, in fact she is still very much alive. Shirley wasn't completely naked during the gold paint scenes, she wore a thong and just to be safe the makeup artist, Paul Rabiger left a small patch of skin about 6-inches long on her abdomen as a safety precaution and the studio even had doctors on standby for Miss Eaton's safety. In 2015, Shirley recreated her famous gold paint look at the age of 78. She spent 2 hours being painted to recreate the iconic pose from the 60s, the original pose was on the cover of US magazine life to promote the film. Shirley created this look again to show that ages doesn't matter, I found the images very empowering! Ve Neill.Ve Neill is a renowned American makeup artist, who is most famous for her work on 'Mrs. Doubtfire' (1993), 'The Hunger Games' (2012) and 'The Amazing Spiderman' (2012). She has been active in the makeup industry since 1977 and is still present today. Ve got her big break when bumping into Fred Phillips at a science-fiction convention. Fred is the man behind the looks of the original Star Trek TV series, he took Ve under his wing, getting her a makeup job on Star Trek: The Motion Picture (1979). Ve Neill is one of the judges on the SyFy original series 'Face Off' which features makeup artists competeing to be the next great name in movie magic and the winner ot $100,000 and other great gifts. The reality competition show involves special effects makeup artists making elaborate creatures and character makeups in a short amount of time. Ve has earned 21 international nominations and wins for her innovative and creative makeups, she has won 2 Emmy awards, 1 Daytime Emmy award, 4 Saturn awards, 1 BAFTA, 3 Academy awards, 1 Hollywood Film award and 1 Hollywood Makeup Artist and Hairstylist award. Ve has been the makeup artist for some of my favourite films;
Seeing as she has been the makeup artist for many of Tim Burton's film and as you know I have always wanted to work for Tim Burton, you can see why she is one of my makeup idols and this weeks Makeup Muse of the week. Ancient Egyptian Eye Makeup.Ancient Egypt was a time of pioneers in the cosmetic world, both men and women would wear makeup to show their status, for fashion and to protect their skin from the sun. The Ancient Egyptians would wear heavy eye makeup to protect their eyes from sandy winds and diseases. Black liner made from kohl was drawn over the top and bottom lash lines and out towards the temple, with green pigment 'malachite' across the lids. Kohl was considered magical and to have healing properties. The Human Skeleton.The Human Skeleton consists of 206 bones, which are the internal frame work of the body. The skeleton has six major functions; protection, support, movement, production of blood cells, endocrine regulation amd storage of minerals. The skull has two main parts; the cranium and the mandible. The cranium is several joined bones and the mandible which is the lower jaw. The human skull can be divided into two categories; the viscerocranium and the neurocranium. The viscerocranium are the bones supporting the face and the neurocranium is the protective structure surrounding the brain. It is thought that the earliest sign of the study of an anatomy started in Ancient Egypt around 1600 BC. Renaissance Physicians discussed the function and form of the skeleton. They were impressed with the hardness of the bone and recognised the necessity of it, because of its structural purpose for the body. Medieval portraits shows how the skeleton shapes the body. Leonardo da Vinci was an artist and anatomist, he made detailed illustrations of the human skeleton. Leonardo drew geometrized drawings of the skeleton and thought it important to draw it from multiple perspectives. It is good for makeup artists to understand the underlying bone and muscle structure as well as knowing the proportion's of facial anatomy. This knowledge is needed to be able to enhance a model or clients features, as well as being able to create character makeups and turning actor's into recreations of famous people. Prosthetic makeup artists need to have an extensice knowledge of anatomy and the proportions of the human body so that they're work can be realistic. The image below is a skull face paint I created a couple of years ago. This is a look I would like to recreate at some point in the future.
Heavy, dark mascara and false lashes were worn daily, dark liner was used around the eyes, eyeshadows used were brown or blue to help accentuate the eyes further. Lashes would sometimes be drawn on under the eye to over-dramatise the look further. This is why the lipstick was pale, so that it could not compete with the eyes. Today I created the iconic 1960s MOD eye makeup, inspired by Twiggy. I had fun creating a big eye makeup, with strong geometric lines. 1930s Moon Manicure.In the 1930s manicures started to get become popular Having a half-moon manicure was originally for a practical reason. In the 1930s nail varnish took a long time to apply and then dry, women wanted to keep their manicures going for a long time. Leaving a half-moon shape meant that the nail regrowth wasn't as noticeable as the weeks went on. The early 30s featured half-moons at the base and the tip of the nail and then as better quality nail varnishes were released the half-moon was only at the base. Nail varnish colours came in silver, gold, green, blue, violet, black and mustard yellow, but red and pink were the most popular. This manicure went by several names; the moonicure, the vintage manicure, half-moon manicure and the reverse French manicure. In 1939, a landmark film in America called 'The Women' was released, the film centres around salon gossip, a woman featured in the film discovers her husband is cheating on her whilst having a manicure in the latest colour 'Jungle Red'. The film showed how manicures and beauty salons had become important factor's of women's lives. Dia de los Muertos.Mexican people also paint sugar skulls on their faces to celebrate their loved ones. Originally the ancestors would wear masks in the form of skulls, but over time it adapted into painting skulls onto their faces. The Mexican holiday is traced back to an Aztec festival which was dedicated to the Goddess Michtecacihuatl. Even though body painting roots are firmly in prehistoric tribal art, it is the 1960s which introduced the modern art we see today. The first modern appearance was in the 1930s when Max Factor Sr painted model, Sally Rand at the 1933 World's Fair in Chicago. Onlookers were shocked at the model's nudity, body painting didn't take off but did become a founding point for future artists. Western artist in the 1960s wanted to find a new way to express themselves. The hippie movement accepted psychodelia, sexuality and nudity. These views and new ways of life and expressionism brought about the art of body painting. |
AuthorThis blog is to follow on from my university final project, which was a historical reference book on ‘Female Hair and Makeup Throughout History’. Each week I will release a post featuring an era and an aspect of hair, makeup and fashion from the time. I will also have my makeup muse of the week, who could be a makeup or fashion trendsetter of their time or a makeup artist who has innovated the industry. Archives
November 2016
Categories
All
|